Switzerland: One country, three cultures

I never would have expected Switzerland to be one of the most diverse countries that I have visited. Plenty of cows? Yes.  Efficiency?  The best. Mountains? Of course. Chocolate? I hoped.  But diversity was not rolling off my tongue…until our recent trip through this stunningly beautiful land.  I was surprised to learn that in this small country the size of New Jersey , there are several official languages and three distinct cultures (German, French, and Italian).  Discovering this cultural heterogeneity contributed towards making our two and a half weeks spent in Switzerland delightful and uniquely interesting.

Switzerland had always been on our list of “must visit” countries.  We were eager to explore the countryside and cities alike.  Hiking through the Alps was a highlight (Check out Mike’s blog here) and the scenery proved so stunning that we felt like we were on the set of the Sound of Music (I know the movie takes place in Austria but you get the idea…the hillllls are alive!!!). But the thing that really struck me about Switzerland was how it enabled us to feel as if we visited three countries in one. In addition to mountain trekking, we spent time using the ridiculously efficient train system to visit the like-sounding, but oh-so-different Swiss towns of Lucerne (German), Lausanne (French), and Lugano (Italian).

Lucerne riverfront buildings

Lucerne:
Our first stop in Switzerland was the picturesque and German-speaking Lucerne.  Set on the edge of Lake Lucerne and at the base of two towering Alps (Mt. Pilatus and Mt. Rigi), I can’t think of a better introduction into the beauty of Swiss cities.  While hotels are typically pricey, we found a great Air Bnb deal and stayed a 20 minute walk out of the city center with a friendly and accommodating Swiss man named Andre. Andre was so proud of his city that he greeted us with authentic Swiss chocolate (it really is unbelievable) and led us on a jog through a nearby forest to show us unique lake views. He even took Mike, Emily, Jeff, and I on a walking tour around town to show off the most beautiful vistas of the city.  

View of Lucerne

We lucked out with clear blue skies during our stay in Lucerne. The sunshine highlighted the verdant snow capped mountains surrounding the city, reflecting perfectly in the lake. When we weren’t spending time with Andre, the four of us enjoyed wandering through the quaint old town streets, taking a self-guided Rick Steves walking tour (Em and I share an affection for the slightly dorky, but lovable guide), strolling the extensive tree-lined lake path, and eating cheese. Lucerne was the epitome of what I always pictured Switzerland to be: extremely clean, mountainous, efficient, delicious, and German. Even after visiting several other Swiss cities, Lucerne has remained my favorite. I only wish we had allotted more than two days to enjoy its charms.

Lake Lucerne

Lausanne (and Yverdon-les-Bains):
Because, I love all things French, I convinced Mike that a trip to Switzerland was incomplete without a stop in the French-speaking Lake Geneva region. Upon disembarking in Lausanne (our choice for home base), I was amazed at the transformation that had taken place in both the landscape and culture. Not only was everyone speaking French but the architecture had gone from typical Swiss chalets to frilly French chateaus.  I actually felt like I was in France as I walked by the myriad of pastel colored cafes, patisseries, and creperies that lined the streets. I did not find Lausanne as picturesque as Lucerne but that could be due to the rainy weather blocking some of the mountain views.  But, despite the sub par weather, Mike and I still enjoyed the city. We explored the historic buildings, peeked in the Olympic museum (Lausanne is home to the International Olympic Committee), and strolled to the slightly underwhelming lakefront.  

Lausanne street

One day, we took the short 20 minute train to Montreux, a ritzy nearby town.  In between rain showers, we were able to meander the banks of Lake Geneva to the medieval Chateau Chillon – Switzerland’s most visited historic monument (according to its website).  We did not buy admission to tour the site but we did enjoy walking around and snapping photos. Even the train rides around the Lake Geneva region were très bien.  During these rides, we were able to view the Lauvaux Vineyard Terraces – 30 km of gorgeous terraced vineyards that line both the railroad and Lake Geneva and are now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Mike Chateau Chillon

After a few days in Lausanne, we trained to the small town of Yverdon-les-Bains where we further enjoyed French Switzerland.  We stayed with Jenna and Florim – an Air Bnb couple that became instant friends.  In Yverdon, I would often forget that I was not in the French countryside as I reveled in speaking my broken French while buying bread and wine for dinner.  Yet, just when I would be convinced that Lausanne or Yverdon were more French than Swiss, I would come across something or someone that is so overwhelming Swiss, I would snap back to reality – the prevalent and recognizable red flag with a white cross, a day with the locals at the odd Swiss baths (which felt more like an indoor/outdoor Holiday Inn pool to us), or a traditional homemade meal of raclette (a Swiss specialty involving a lot of melted cheese) with Jenna and Florim.  This was a strange but wonderful dichotomy.

Yverdon-les-Bains main square

Lugano:
We initially chose to visit Lugano, the leading city in Italian-speaking Switzerland, as a way to escape the rainy chill that had taken over the rest of the country towards the end of our time in Switzerland. Lugano was the only place on the weather map that was sunny and warm so we decided to pay it a visit even though it meant training all the way across the country to get there.  Thankfully, due to Switzerland’s small size, it is only a 4.5 hour (extremely scenic) journey.  And, as previously mentioned, the Swiss rail is an exercise in timeliness so we did not mind the travel. In fact, we enjoyed listening to the announcements on board as they changed from French to German to Italian as we passed through the corresponding regions.  We also noticed a visible shift in landscape from chateaus to chalets to Mediterranean-style villas surrounded by palm trees.  While we had said our arrividercis to Italy weeks ago, we instantly felt like we were back.  

Lake Lugano promenade

We opted to stay in Castagnola, a tiny village within walking distance of Lugano.  This ended up being a perfect base for us to explore the area on foot. We walked or jogged into Lugano daily to bask in the beauty of the Lake Lugano shore and surrounding parks, window shop at the fancy boutiques, or buy groceries to stock up for our next picnic. Castagnola was also an ideal location for hiking up to Mount Bre – a mountain whose peak was supposed to show views of Lugano and the lake (the hike was there…the views a bit lacking).

Gandria

We also ventured into the nearby fishing town of Gandria which is quite possibly the most adorable village I have encountered on this trip.  We found a bench with a view for our nightly sunset picnics that were fun and romantic but also the only way we could afford to eat. Lugano is Italy with Swiss prices – at least the chocolate is cheap. While Mike and I really enjoyed it here, I would recommend just going to Italy where you can get the same (if not better) food and views for a fraction of the cost.  But, it was still fascinating and fun to experience a third culture in small Switzerland. And we know how much Mike loves Italy. . . 

Sunset picnic next to Lake Lugano

Overall, our time spent in Switzerland exceeded even our highest expectations.  I still marvel at the fact that we could experience three distinct cultures, languages, and cuisines within the confines of one country.  It was amazing to feel like I was in Germany, France, and Italy while never leaving the Swiss borders.  And, all the while, each city still maintained characteristics that made it unmistakably Swiss. The scenery, food, ease of transportation, and diversity made for a memorable 17 days in Switzerland. Even as I write this, I am already yearning to return to this crazily efficient, deliciously chocolaty, and wonderfully diverse country.